Home ] Rifleshop ] Tips & Aids ] DVD By APV ] Rifling Book ] Over The Log Shoot ] Project Photo Albums ] 

Current Projects ] Apprentices ] Testimonials ] Purveyor's &  Links ]




Shaping The Stock:


The barrel was inletted into the stock and then I drew the Lancaster rifle profile onto the butt of the stock. This will allow me the profile I need to inlet the barrel tang into the stock. 

Lancaster Profile.JPG (222707 bytes) To narrow the forearm oBarrel Line Tool.JPG (240876 bytes)f the stock, I used an 1/8" drill bit as an aid along the side of the swamped barrel. 









Lines Along Barrel.JPG (255428 bytes)This gave me nice even smooth lines on either side of the barrel.

Lock and Sideplate Layout.JPG (267356 bytes)

In the lock panel area, I measured the width of the lock bolster. I then positioned the lock in the approximate location on the side of the stock, based upon where the breech plug end is in the end of the barrel. I will be putting the drum at the edge of the breech plug. A mark was made on the stock where the front of the lock was. Then added two more inches in front of this mark to be my transition area for the lock panel to the forearm. I did the same for the side plate side. 





After the lines were drawn, I cut the stock down to profile the stock. 

Stock Profile.JPG (207893 bytes)     Top View.JPG (267129 bytes)







So far, the barrel has been inlet into the stock, pattern laid out on the stock and the excess wood has been removed. Next I will inlet the breechplug and then create the ramrod channel. 


With the lock inletted, I can use my Golden Means dividers to lay out the approximate location of the cheek piece on the butt of the stock. 2006-02-05 015.JPG (212109 bytes)

2006-02-05 005.JPG (209316 bytes)

First I open up the 5ths side of the dividers and span the length of the lock plate. 





Then I flip the dividers to the 3rds end and from the front of the lock opening I locate the first mark.

2006-02-05 006.JPG (214275 bytes)Now I rotate the dividers and with the 3rds make a mark the same distance from the center of the lock where the mark is. This will leave a2006-02-05 007.JPG (228192 bytes) mark outside the lock area on the wrist. This would be the mark that is used later for locating the patchbox hinge on the right side . 





Transfer this mark across the top to the other side of the stock. 2006-02-05 008.JPG (225219 bytes)

Now draw a line from the top of the wrist down on the left side of the stock. 2006-02-05 009.JPG (241347 bytes)






Now with the dividers, spread the 5th side of the dividers from this line on the left side across the butt of the stock to the outer edge of the buttplate. 2006-02-05 010.JPG (226494 bytes)


Flip the dividers and coming from the buttplate 2006-02-05 011.JPG (258498 bytes)end, use the 3rds end of the dividers to determine where the front of the cheekpiece is. 




Now with the mark made, you use the 3rds end of the dividers and go from the mark on the wrist to the front of the cheekpiece. 2006-02-05 012.JPG (228868 bytes)


Flip the dividers and now you can mark the rear end of the cheekpiece. 2006-02-05 013.JPG (227043 bytes)





Having done this, you now have the front and the end of the cheekpiece laid out. Note, this is how J.P. Beck laid out his rifle, which is the one I'm emulating.  Other makers used different steps.  The rear mark of the cheekpiece will curve up to the inside corner of the buttplate. 

Side of Unfinished Butt Stock copy.jpg (58419 bytes) Here is top view of the stock. Top of Comb A copy.jpg (55285 bytes)





The rest are a series of photos taken as the stock was cut down and shaped. Hope they help. side of unfinished butt bottom copy.jpg (47866 bytes)

Side of unfinished butt stock b copy.jpg (46019 bytes)   Side of unfinished butt c copy.jpg (28673 bytes)


In the process, took the height of the cheekpiece down from 3/4" to 3/8" in the last photo above.Carving Cheek Area copy.jpg (60071 bytes)

Redraw the Cheek Area copy.jpg (50796 bytes) Laying Out Comb Area copy.jpg (49412 bytes) 

Fine Tuning of Cheek Area.jpg (84612 bytes)

 Now for the other side of the stock. Patchbox side of stock initial cut.jpg (39242 bytes)






Shaping the Patchbox side initially.jpg (71622 bytes)Divide the side into 3rds and then file to meet the lines. Patchbox side of stock 5ths.jpg (65392 bytes)







Wrist Area a copy.jpg (50656 bytes) Work on the wrist by dividing into 3rds, 5ths and Lock Panel View  copy.jpg (57351 bytes)then 7ths. Also, you need to slop the sides around the lock panel, too.  You want to round this area allowing everything to blend together. 


With the lock panel defined, you can now move onto the side plate panel.

Side Plate Panel Work:

Started shaping the forearm by dividing the belly into 5ths (want a flatter belly) and the side into 3rds. 2006-02-12 047.JPG (258312 bytes)  2006-02-12 049.JPG (250541 bytes)

Then I removed wood from the first section on either side of the stock. 






With my files, I then rolled over the wood toward each line until the line disappeared. As a result, the belly was rounded over as 2006-02-12 052.JPG (249924 bytes)shown here in the photo.   Here you can see the exposure I have of the glued in dowel I will be covering later with the forearm inlay. 


I continued shaping down the length of the forearm by dividing the sides into 3rds, 5ths and then 7ths. I wanted a rounded forearm leading to the nose cap. See Nose Cap: section.





If you like the site or have any questions, drop me a line by clicking on "Hoot" below

(c) Copyright 2005.  All Rights Reserved.