Making & Installation of Nose Cap:
First I had to flatten the nose area of the stock. I measured about 1" forward of the front thimble, then determined my slope to the nose cap area. Then I filed this area flat to just wipe away evidence of the ramrod channel.
I wanted a brass nose cap so I decided to make one from scratch using brass in the shop. Before I started, I needed to determine how long the cap was going to be. I laid out my front pin inlay and then using my 3/5 dividers, I used the dividers to determine the "5" length from the front end of the inlay to the end of the stock, short of the barrel.
Using the dividers, I made marks down both sides and across the top.
From this point, I measured the thickness of the brass I was going to use. In this case it was 1/32" brass. Then I cut along this line to this depth. Using my chisel, I cut toward the line and made a "V" cut to this depth.
I made 1/32" depth marks across the face of the stock. Filed a crown on the end of the stock to this depth. Using a file and coarse sandpaper, I took the wood down so the depth was uniform between the two ends of the cap area. I used a square across the surface to give me the perception of high spots. A piece of paper was wrapped around the end of the stock in this area to tell me how long the metal strip needed to be. Taking this measurement I transferred this to the piece of brass. I also measured the depth of the nose cap from the end of the stock to the rear cut line. This was transferred to the brass, too. Now I had a rectangular piece of metal laid out, so I cut it out. The brass was then heated to a red glow and submerged in a cup of water. This annealed (softened) the brass.
A center line was drawn on the brass. The gun was positioned upside down with the barrel in place. A clamp was used to hold the brass in place. The brass was then pressed down onto the stock. Using additional clamps to press the metal to the stock, the brass took on the shape of the stock. Then the upper edges were tapped into the barrel. However, now you need to remove the cap to flatten the surfaces making contact with the barrel. Reinstall the cap and bring the upper edges closer to the barrel. Once satisfied, the cap was tight, it was removed.
Now it is time to make the end cap for the nose cap.
I took the "U" shape of the nose cap and stood it on end and traced it onto another piece of brass. This brass can be 1/32 or 1/16" brass stock. You want to use the thickness so you end up about 1/16" to 1/18' from the end of the barrel when finished. Once the outside of the brass matches the face of your "U" shaped nose cap, use calibers for the thickness of your brass and then trace this around the perimeter of the cap. Using black magic marker on the brass helps make the scratches from the calibers stand out. Now file the brass down to this line.
One this is done, then fit the face plate into the face of the "U" shaped piece. Trial and error by filing here and there will make a good fit. Once you are satisfied with the fit, you want to chamfer the inner edge where you will fill this later with solder.
Filing and sanding this surface, it cleans up real nice.
To remove the brass for the end of the barrel, I remove the barrel from the stock. Then install the nose cap onto the stock.
Remove the cap from the stock.
This allows me room to use a file to reduce the brass down to the barrel flats in the stock. Make sure the cap is now fully back to the rear cut out for your nose cap on the stock. If the nose cap does not go far enough back, use candle black on the nose cap and then reinstall the cap. Lightly tap it and then remove. You will see black marks on the face of the stock. Use your file to remove these marks until the nose cap closes the rear gap. If the nose cap is uneven, then use a nail file between the cap and the wood around the perimeter to even up the two edges.
You will note in the photo a little black dot. This will be the location for the brass rivet I will use to secure the cap to the stock. You can obtain these from your local hardware store. The heads are round, but I always square them up so they fit in the barrel channel bottom between the flats. The hole should provide clearance for the rivet and then the rivet is inlet into the stock. This way when peening the rivet, it will be supported by the barrel.
Remove the rivet and make sure you counter sink the exposed hole on the bottom face of the nose cap. When the rivet is peened, it should fill this countersunk area with the rivet to serve as a good rivet recess.
Reinstall the barrel into the stock. Note: you may have to file the inner sides of the nose cap for good clearance between the cap and barrel. Pin the barrel back into the stock. Rest the end of barrel with the nose cap with rivet on an anvil or on the anvil of your vise. Make sure the rest of the gun is well supported. Using a 12 oz. peen hammer, peen the rivet to fill the hole and the countersunk area.
Now you can file the rivet down to the surface.
Here are three views of the finished nose cap.
Now I will go back and install the trigger guard.